When driving an older car, the next repair bill is always just around the corner. Even good, reliable cars need maintenance as they age.
While some dealerships push extended warranties for peace of mind, the wrong policy can be expensive with little benefit.
However, just like insurance, the best policy is the one you never need! But protects you if you in the event that you do.
In this article, we will discuss whether extended warranties are worth it on a used car and what factors should influence your decision.
Key Takeaways: Extended Warranties
| Are Extended Warranties Worth It? | To judge the value of an extended warranty you must understand what is covered, the limits to that coverage, and the process to claim and repair an issue. |
| Check Claim Limits | Cheaper policies often have low per claim limits (e.g., $1,000 max per repair). This can leave you out of pocket for a major repair. |
| Servicing Conditions | To keep the warranty valid, you usually must service the car according to the logbook schedule. Missing a service can void coverage. |
| Double Coverage Risk | Check if the car still has a Manufacturer’s Warranty or if the dealer’s statutory 3-month warranty is sufficient. |
Car Manufacturer Warranty vs. Purchased Policy
We first need to distinguish between a new car warranty that will cover a newer vehicle for the first 5-7 years, and one on an older car.
There can be a misconception that a purchased warranty extends the car’s original factory warranty.
This is not the case and is a separate policy guaranteed by the writer of that policy, not the manufacturer.

Manufacturer’s Warranty
A manufacturer’s warranty is the provided by the maker of the vehicle, and is a standard inclusion in the new-car price.
This will cover specific defects for a set period that is usually 5-7 years.
It is backed by the brand and honoured across its entire dealer network.
The warranty also remains valid after the original owner sells the vehicle up until the expiration of the warranty period.
Purchased Warranty
A purchased warranty is typically a third-party service contract. Its value depends entirely on the policy’s terms, and has nothing to do with the manufacturer.
This means the claims process must go through the policy provider and adhere to the correct processes.
This can include pre-authorisation for work that is covered by the policy, and potentially restrictions on the choice of repairer.
These contracts also can have a much longer list of exclusions for common wear and tear items like brakes, clutches, and tyres.
However, some policies may include some of these so it is important to read exactly what is and is not included.
Before buying warranty coverage, check if the used car has any factory warranty remaining.
If it does, adding another policy is likely redundant.
If not, treat the service contract like any insurance: read the fine print to understand who is liable, where you can claim, and exactly what’s excluded.
Used Car Statutory Warranty
If you buy a used car through a licensed dealership, then in most states the vehicle will be covered by a mandatory warranty of three months.
The dealership is responsible for any major failures within this time period and there is no cost for this coverage.
This a big reason why people should buy older cars from licensed dealers and not private sellers.
It is one of many consumer protections that are in place.
3 Types of Warranty Providers and What They Cover
The value of an extended warranty depends entirely on who underwrites the policy and the specific level of protection you buy.
Policies typically come from three sources:
- Manufacturer-Backed: Often the most reliable option, with claims accepted at any of the brand’s authorised dealers nationwide.
- Dealer-Sold Product: A third-party policy where the dealer acts as a reseller. It may require you to service the vehicle at their specific location to make a claim.
- Third-Party Provider: An independent company. These vary wildly in quality, from excellent providers to those with strict claim limits and difficult processes.
Coverage is usually split into two main tiers.
A basic powertrain policy only covers essential mechanical parts like the engine, transmission, and drivetrain.
Or, a more expensive comprehensive or exclusionary policy covers almost everything except a specific list of excluded items like tyres, brakes, and regular servicing.
Before signing, always ask for the policy’s coverage schedule, claim limits, and any waiting periods.
This simple check separates genuine protection from a worthless piece of paper.
Warranty Premiums and Finance Options
As a guide, a basic powertrain policy costs between $600 and $750 per year, while comprehensive coverage usually exceeds $1,000 annually.
These prices rise significantly for older, high-kilometre, or European vehicles where the risk of major repairs is higher.
If your finance provider allows it, some will opt to roll the warranty cost into their car loan.
However, you can only do this if you can service the repayments on a higher loan amount, and the maximum loan-to-value ratio is below the maximum threshold.
What Most Warranties Exclude
Warranty disputes rarely stem from scams but from a misunderstanding of what the policy excludes.
This is where the intended peace of mind can quickly turn into frustration.
These service contracts almost never pay for:
- Wear-and-tear items: Think brakes, tyres, batteries, clutches, and often belts or hoses.
- Routine servicing: Oil changes, filters, and other scheduled maintenance are always your responsibility.
- Pre-existing faults: If a problem or its symptoms existed before you bought the policy, it won’t be covered.
There are two common traps to be aware of.
The first is a scenario where a mechanic finds a failed part, but the provider classifies it as wear-and-tear to reject the claim.
Second is to watch out for low per-claim limits.
A $1,500 cap won’t cover a $4,000 gearbox replacement, leaving you with a large gap to cover out of your own pocket.
Before you pay, get a physical copy of the policy. Use a highlighter to mark every exclusion so you fully understand what you are buying.
Why Warranty Claims Get Denied
A warranty is useless if your claim gets denied.
Rejections can sometimes stem from simple procedural mistakes, not the mechanical fault itself.
Understanding these common traps is the best way to ensure your policy actually pays out when you need it.
The most common denial triggers have little to do with the broken part:
- Missing Service History: You cannot provide a complete logbook from a licensed mechanic.
- No Pre-Authorisation: You get the repair done first and try to claim reimbursement afterwards.
- Wrong Repairer: The policy requires a network-approved mechanic, but you use your own.
- Gradual Failure: The provider argues the issue was pre-existing or developed slowly over time.
To protect your investment, follow this simple checklist:
- Buy from a licensed dealership so you have a road worthy certificate and consumer protections on the vehicle standard.
- Get a pre-purchase inspection to identify existing faults before buying cover.
- File every service invoice and keep your logbook updated.
- Confirm your preferred mechanic is accepted by the provider in writing.
Finally, vet the provider. Look for transparent terms and a clear claims process.
Be cautious of unsolicited calls or aggressive upsells. Good products don’t require high-pressure sales tactics.
3 Scenarios Where a Warranty Is a Smart Move
An extended warranty is a smart financial move in three specific scenarios where managing unpredictable repair costs is the top priority.
- You’re buying a higher-risk vehicle. This includes older cars with high kilometres, European models with expensive parts, or vehicles with complex systems like a turbo or hybrid, where major failures are more likely.
- You plan on keeping the car long-term. An ownership horizon of three or more years increases the odds you will face an age-related mechanical failure.
- A surprise bill would cause financial hardship. If a sudden $4,000 repair would force you into debt, a warranty converts that large, unknown risk into a predictable, fixed cost.
For an owner with limited savings, a predictable premium is better than the risk of a sudden $5,000 transmission bill.
If these scenarios describe you, look for a policy that specifically covers the systems most likely to fail on your car.
Check that claim limits are high enough to cover realistic costs for major items like the drivetrain or electronics.

When to Decline the Extended Warranty
A car service contract isn’t always the right move. It’s better to decline the offer if:
- Your car still has a factory warranty. If significant manufacturer or Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) coverage remains, buying an extra policy is a redundant expense providing overlapping coverage.
- You own a reliable model. For vehicles with a strong track record and affordable parts, the risk of a major failure may be low enough to self-insure by putting the premium cost into a dedicated repairs account.
- You plan to sell soon. You pay the full premium upfront but won’t own the car long enough to benefit from its long-term protection.
Contractual Red Flags to Watch For
You should also read any conditions with the policy that could limit the value offered, or the use heavily.
Some red flags to lookout for:
- Servicing is locked to one specific dealership at an inflated price.
- The policy has many exclusions, low claim limits, or an unclear claims process.
- High-pressure today only offers are pushed in the finance office.
If you’re unsure, you don’t have to decide immediately.
Ask for the documents to review at home. Many providers let you buy a policy after the sale, giving you time to decide without pressure.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does an extended warranty cost on a used car in Australia?
A basic powertrain warranty typically costs between $600 and $750 per year, while comprehensive coverage often exceeds $1,000 annually. The final price depends on the car’s age, kilometres, and model.
Is a dealer warranty better than a third-party warranty?
The quality of a warranty depends on its terms, not who sells it. A good policy has a wide repair network, a simple claims process, and clear coverage. Always compare the contract details, claim limits, and exclusions list before deciding.
What’s the number one reason extended warranty claims get denied?
The most common reasons for denial are a poor service history and pre-existing faults. Providers will reject claims if you cannot prove the vehicle was maintained according to the required servicing schedule.
Can I cancel an extended warranty if I change my mind?
Yes, most contracts include a cooling-off period that allows you to cancel for a full or partial refund. The specific terms and timeline are detailed in your policy documents.
Will an extended warranty increase my car loan repayments?
If you bundle the premium into your car finance then yes. If you pay cash for the extended warranty then your loan repayments will be unaffected.
Should You Buy A Used Car Warranty
Extended warranties can be a life saver if something goes wrong with your vehicle in that first year or two of ownership.
However, you need to make sure you are in a position to extract sufficient value in the case that there is a problem.
This means understanding what is covered, the limits to that coverage, and knowing the process to claim and repair the issue without incident.
Once you understand all of this you can make a confident decision on whether an extended used car warranty offers genuine value for you.
And if something major goes wrong you will be saved from a hefty repair bill.